Since this is our spring edition of our newsletter and as the season
for winter king salmon nears it’s peak, it’s only appropriate to feature a
King Salmon recipe. There is not seafood to be found anywhere in the
world that presents a flavor as sweet and rich to the palate
than the delectable fresh winter king salmon.
Winter caught Chinook or King Salmon
(Oncorhynchus tshawytscha) is one, if not the best,
if not the absolute best tasting and succulent fish in the world.
Please don’t misunderstand us, all wild salmon are great, but
the winter king is really extraordinarily exceptional. In order to
present this recipe correctly, we’ll need to ‘let the cat out of the
bag’ so to speak. Commercially caught between October and the
end of April in Southeast Alaska, these “kings” of salmon feed on
a diet rich in squid, which differs from their diet the remainder of
the year, raising the oil content as well as giving the flesh a sweeter
flavor. Only during the winter do squid abundantly move into
the waters of Alaska’s Inside Passage and become a choice prey for
king salmon which normally feed on Pacific herring, sand lance,
shrimp and other smaller crustaceans. Because of the very
limited commercial fishery for winter caught
Chinook or King Salmon, they are a very rare
breed and perhaps one of the most difficult
and expensive of all seafood to obtain,
especially fresh. The entire winter Chinook
catch is limited to only 45,000 fish which seems like a lot but
compared to the 200 million plus salmon that are harvested in
Alaska during the commercial summer season, one realizes how
truly rare and special this majestic salmon really is.The ultra Omega
3 rich winter king salmon are a very highly prized and well guarded local
delight of residents of Southeast Alaska and those few others in the know.
King salmon stocks are carefully managed by the Alaska Department of
Fish & Game and remain sustainably harvested specie.
Salmon with Salsa Verde
Craig Stoll at Delfina Restaurant in San Francisco serves this salmon dish with cranberry beans and Blue Lake or yellow wax beans.
Serves 4
Salsa Verde:
1 shallot, minced
2 tablespoons champagne vinegar
2 anchovy fillets
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 cup chopped Italian parsley
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
1 tablespoon minced capers
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
4 salmon fillets, 6 oz. each, skin on
salt, pepper and extra olive oil
Photo by Terrence McCarthy
Combine the shallot and vinegar in a non-reactive bowl and
let stand for 30 minutes. With a mortar and pestle, work the
anchovy and garlic to a fine paste. Transfer the paste to a
bowl. Crush the herbs and add to the anchovy paste. Stir in
the capers. Drain the shallots (reserving vinegar); add them to
the sauce. Stir in the olive oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning,
adding salt or reserved vinegar as desired. Set aside salsa verde. Preheat the oven to 325° F. Brush salmon with oil;
season with salt and pepper. Set the fillets on a baking sheet,
skin side down. Bake for 15 minutes or until salmon flakes
slightly. The salmon will remain translucent, appearing less
cooked than it is. If desired, cook a few minutes longer. Lift the
salmon using a thin spatula to leave the skin behind. Drizzle
the salmon with the salsa verde.
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